An homage to Paris, the 50s, the House’s heritage and to Catherine, the founding couturier’s inspirational sister, the Dior Autumn-Winter 2023-2024 collection by Maria Grazia Chiuri was unveiled amid a massive textile installation, titled ‘Valkyrie Miss Dior’, by the artist Joana Vasconcelos. With the voice of Édith Piaf on the soundtrack, the looks rethought the body’s relationship to clothing, with a preponderance of classic black transformed through fabrics woven to crunch and crease and adapt, flowers glowing in the jewel tones of archival warp prints, little swags of jet beads sparkling after dark, and colorful checks and maps of the French capital among the standout graphic elements.